July 31st - August 11th, Sumatra

July 31st
Our last few hours in Jakarta.

With our bags packed and everything stowed, I spent my last morning speaking Dutch on the phone to various banks in the UK and New Zealand - or at least, I might as well have done. Anyhow, as I sit in the lobby of the Garuda Plaza Hotel in Medan, Sumatra, all of that seems a long way behind me - as indeed does Jakarta, my home for 3 years. It's amazing how quickly circumstances move on. Having arrived and settled into a really very nice hotel, we ventured out into Medan for dinner, passing a huge mosque with what appeared to be stained glass windows as well as an open park area with a small pond where people were eating and drinking. We stopped for a drink - but not for long - a couple of boys with illusions of stardom set about destroying the atmosphere as best they could, armed with a guitar and about 3 different singing notes between them. To be fair they were just after a little bit of cash.

A padang dinner - a little bit like a buffet where you choose your food from the selection available. And, it was very easy to book a bus to Bukit Lawang for the following morning.

August 1st
Usually in Indonesia, if you are told a journey will take 4 hours, then it takes 6. It was therefore pleasantly surprising to arrive in Bukit Lawang after only 3 hours on the bus. We allowed ourselves to be taken to the Wisma Indah - a small, very cheap hotel on the banks of the river. Now, the main reason for going to Bukit Lawang, is the hope of seeing orangutans. There is an orphanage in Bukit Lawang for them - apes who have been taken back off illegal keepers in cities. They are then rehabilitated back into the jungle - a process that can take several years and sometimes can never be achieved.

So we set off for the feeding session - the orangutans that have been released into the wild, but still rely upon twice daily feeding sessions. After negotiating the river and the steep climb up to the viewing platform we then waited patiently in the rain for an hour for the orangutans. But, they failed to keep their end of the bargain and we left disappointed. Apparently we should have been pleased as this shows that these animals are beginning to fend for themselves in the jungle, however, it would have been nice to see at least one...

We trudged back to the hotel in the pouring rain and rashly booked ourselves onto a 2 day jungle trek starting out the following morning - as we were 95% promised an orangutan sighting!

As night fell and the rain continued to fall we began to regret the decision - however, it was too late to pull out.

August 2nd
On being informed that 2 others would be joining us on our trek, we surveyed all the potential candidates in the hotel over our banana pancake breakfast. They all appeared to be very serious and experienced - in stark contrast to ourselves. Therefore, we were very happy to be introduced later to a lovely French couple who appeared to be as intimidated by the jungle and the task ahead as we were.

The 4 of us and 2 guides set off about 9am on our 2 day trek. We were all decked out in walking boots, packs and all that we deemed necessary for a night in the rain forest. We were prepared for rain, however, as we set off the sun shone brightly, so much so that half an hour later of uphill walking and we were drenched in sweat.

A little further on and we encountered our 1st orangutans - a mother and baby. These had been rehabilitated back into the jungle by the orphanage programme and so were classed as semi wild. With beautiful long brown hair they effortlessly glided from branch to branch, tree to tree. Occasionally they stopped swinging and sat on a branch and became less ape and more humanlike as they ate fruit and lazily watched us as we watched them. They are truly wonderful creatures and it was a privalge to sit only a few feet away.

Over the next few hours we trekked uphill, downhill, over and under branches, across streams and deeper into the jungle. There was no path - only a direction. This was no ordinary walk and made only possible by the complete absence of any liability laws. We became more exhausted and exhilerated with every step. On the way we came across 2 more orangutans, 1 of which cautiously eyed us for ages before swinging off out of sight.

We stopped at a stream and gratefully drank from it.

We stopped for 2 Tomas Leaf monkeys that obligingly posed for us.

We stopped for all manner of bugs and insects of all shapes, colours and sizes that I only previously thought existed on nature programmes and in encyclopedias.
We also stopped high above the trees on a hill towards the end of the trek and ate some fruit. "It is all downhill from here", announced one of the guides. "Ahh, easy" we chimed. "Erm..., yes, ok", he mumbled, and avoided eye contact.
View from the top.

We all stumbled, slipped, tumbled and slid for the next hour down to the river. It would have been easier to absail. At last we arrived at the river, across which lay our camp. Exhausted, we waded across. The camp lay on the river bank, dense jungle surrounding it and rising steeply upwards all about. The setting was stunning. Unbelievably, as we staggered into camp, 2 orangutans appeared in the tree above us. These ones were completely wild. Apparently only 7000 exist in Sumatra (an island bigger than France). As we sat down our guide said to me, "you lucky man". I followed his gaze to the orangutans playing in the branches above us, the dense jungle behind, the river meandering below us, and then across at Marsha next to me - and I nodded. 'Yes I am', I thought.

We peeled off our wet clothes and bathed in the river. Later on a toucan announced itself by honking as it flew from tree to tree in the blue sky above us. As the sun set and darkness descended, we were well fed with delicious food and quietly watched as fire flies glittered in the tree tops. A wonderful day.
Fishing for dinner:

The view from the camp:

August 3rd
A hot cup of tea eased our weary legs and a dip in the cool river did so further. As the sun came out and breakfast was served we relaxed on the water's edge.

A little later one of the guides sidled up. "so, we go up that hill and down it and up another today, yes?". He was pointing almost directly upwards. Now, I should point out that we had booked ourselves onto a 2 day trek that was supposed to then conclude with a boat trip down the river back to Bukit Lawang. Exhaustion and the prescence of a boat already waiting on the water in front of us led me to believe that rarely did tourists opt for the 2nd day trek option. He had the look in his eye of a man who has never been disappointed before... "So, trekking yes?", he pushed. "I don't think we really want to", I replied. "Could we just relax here and catch a boat home later?". He paused thoughtfully for a moment, as though he had never considered this possibility before - despite preparing the boat minutes earlier. "It is possible", he said. And it was settled. And here's our boat:

Further relaxation and dips ensued. With the orangutans and the toucan long gone, the animals of the Sumatran jungle obviously felt duty bound to provide entertainment for us and duly dispatched some monkeys to play for us on the opposite bank. Late morning and we took the 'boat' home. White water rafting it may be in the wet season, but it was a reasonably gentle ride into town. However, it was enough to tip our captain and chief steerer and navigator into the water at one point. As we neared Bukit Lawang, the captain appointed Marsha as temporary steerer and handed her the steering pole. Instantly, Marsha started showing off and firstly took us sideways and then backwards down the river. She was promptly made to relinquish her position and normality returned and we approached the town facing downstream.

Another exhilerating day. We tempted fate by wanting too much and visited the feeding station once more in the afternoon, only to be once again disappointed by a no-show. However, the day before with the orangutans had been fantastic.

August 4th
Motorbikes and their drivers took Marsha and I and our bags on the hair raising 2 hour journey up to Tangkahan. These had been organised the day before and we set off after what had become our daily fix of banana pancake for breakfast. The journey took us through rainforest as well as palm oil tree plantations. These are areas of the jungle that have been cut down to make way for large scale palm oil plantations and their factories. Wealthy people getting wealthier at the expense of the rainforest. It is a hot issue in Indonesia at the moment and we were able to see the deforestation first hand and the destructive nature of it. At one stage, on our left we had a beautiful dense jungle teeming with life, colours and sounds. On our right we had an area of scrubland where a plantation area had been used and discarded.

Tangkahan is a little known place further north than Bukit Lawang and further into the jungle. It has not yet made it into the Lonely Planet and hence, was relatively free of tourists. A gently flowing river separated a tiny hamlet from a few guest houses. After paying the entrance fee and catching a small boat over the river we checked into the Jungle Lodge. A wonderful setting. As we entered the reastaurant area overlooking the river and forest in front of it, a couple of Tomas Leaf monkeys played in the trees above. Here's the view:

We spent the rest of the morning exploring the area, floating in the gentle currents of the river and coming across a waterfall that we both managed to sit under.
Proof of me doing it;

After lunch our self appointed tour guide from the hotel collected us and took us to the elephant orphanage nearby. This orphanage works in much the same way the orangutan one does - except the elephants are usually there for life. The elephants were walked down to the river whereupon they were given a scrub down by the people working there. Marsha and then I were invited to help scrub the elephants clean of the day's dirt in the river.
Marsha washing an elephant:

An elephant washing Marsha:

They are magnificent animals and it was a special moment to be able to get that close to them. The elephants showered water over themselves on the command of their keepers and generally enjoyed themselves in the water. After the bath we were invited to ride an elephant each back up the hill. Again, a great experience.

By the time we returned to the Jungle Lodge the afternoon had almost passed. A quick shower and we were soon in the restaurant watching a troop of monkeys play in the trees opposite until it got too dark to see them. Good food - Gado Gado (vegetables in a satay sauce) - and then bed.

August 5th
I spent the morning sleeping, breakfasting and then lying in a hammock reading. Marsha did much the same but also took herself off with her camera for a while. We could easily have stayed several more days here and maybe have completed another jungle trek! However, a plane was waiting in Medan. So, early afternoon we negotiated the half hour bike ride to where the bus was travelling from. As we arrived the bus was reduced to 3 wheels by some boys who then proceeded to poke about underneath bashing the axis with a hammer a few times. Once satisfied they had done whatever they were trying to do, they reafixed the wheel and we set off to Medan. The 4 hours actually passed reasonably quickly. I stared out of the window enjoying the spectacle that is 'roadside Indonesia'. Motorbikes carrying 1, 2 , 3, 4, 5 people sometimes with bags of groceries, durians and often with huge wooden objects such as table tops and chairs. Carts and trolleys attached to bikes selling sate, pancakes, children's toys etc... And everywhere are accidents narrowly being avoided. Chickens, cats and dogs add to the mix.

By the time we arrived at the Hotel Sumatera there was only enough time for some ordinary city food and a little catch up on the internet.

August 6th
The less said about today the better. Arriving at the airport, as instructed, 2 hours before departure to pick up the tickets we had booked whilst in Bukit Lawang - heading to Banda Aceh - the picking up of the tickets was fine but we then were informed of the 1 hour delay. This became 2 hours and eventually 3 hours. Unfortunately, this meant that we missed the afternoon ferry we had been intending to take from Banda Aceh to Pulau Weh (Weh Island) just off the coast. So, we were stuck with a rainy afternoon and evening in this town.

We asked at the lobby of the Sulthan hotel where we were staying in about a cinema; then about a shopping mall; and then anything... We ended up taking a walk around the rather depressing centre. After the tsunami the place was apparently fillled with NGOs and UN workers etc... They have since left leaving behind a small city that functions well enough, but that's about all. Sharia law reigns in this area - perhaps that had something to do with the lack of any kind of entertainment.

A pizza hut stood around the corner and it wasn't too bad. In bed before 9pm.

August 7th
Raining again and we debated briefly about whether it was worth heading out to the island of Weh at all. It was our iintention to dive a little and to relax on the sandy beaches in the sun. Anyhow, despite the rain - and despite the gridlock of people and cars outside the hotel we just caught the ferry in time and crossed to Weh. On checking into Lumbah Lumbah dive centre and the accomodation there we found ourselves shortly afterwards crammed onto a boat with many other divers heading up the coast. As has already been noted in this blog, Marsha and I are anything but experienced and confident divers, and the number of people around was a little offputting. Trying to jam on my flippers just before entering the water from the boat, I realised I had mistakenly picked up a pair of extra small ones. I had to swap with one of the instructors - hardly endearing myself to the crew. Anyhow, the dive passed very pleasantly and for once without any calamity. Nothing too unusual or extravagent under the water, however, the visibility was good and allowed us to watch a turtle nearby for ages as well as a couple of Moray eels and some other reasonably big fish.

Pulau Weh is a small island - the western most point of Sumatra and also Indonesia. It comprises 3 main areas to stay; we stayed in Gapang, a pretty sandy cove with a number of cafes on the shore. Travelling from place to place and diving can be tiring and after sharing a Golden Trevelli fish in Limbo Cafe we opted for bed.

August 8th
Last in the boat again. This time I had the correct fins with me at least. 9:30am and having put down a cup of tea and some sort of egg related breakfast we again found ourselves on the dive boat along with many others. ''Look at the size of those waves!! They're huge'', shouted one of the younger instructors in the boat - hardly calming our jangling nerves. She was right though, the waves were rolling the boat around all over the place. Once under the water everything was much calmer.

I remember the first time I saw a shark whilst diving. Excitement mixed with a fair sized quantity of fear and apprehhension. The only real enjoyment was the telling people about it afterwards. Now, however, a few sharks later, knowing that they will not bother us, it is possible to simply enjoy watching them. When the black tipped reef shark was pointed out to us in the waters above us, we were able to watch as it nozed around lazily and then powerfully swam off into the murky depths. The current increased throughout the dive sending us to and fro rather than in any 1 direction. Getting back into the boat afterwards was an ordeal in itself with the swell being even bigger than before.

Marsha and I then walked the 4km between Gapang and the next bay and had lunch. It was another beautiful sandy bay - this time with good snorkelling just off it. On the way back we got talking to another fella who was on his way to the other side of the island - so we went too. A different coastline altogether, crashing waves on rocks, spray rising into the jungle behind.

August 9th
Our last fully day in Indonesia - very sad.

This time we hung around like spare parts a full 15 mins before the boat was ready to depart for the morning's diving - but at least we weren't late. Out on the water there were massive currents, so much so that the instructor in the group entering the water just before us was shot up to the surface a few mins after going under. So, we drove round to a different spot and enjoyed a leisurely dive. At the very end of the dive I spotted a turtle. After watching it for a minute or so it then did something I'd never seen before - it swam towards a diver (me!). It came right up to my face, close enough to have rubbed noses - I even had to back away slightly. Its legs/flippers were enveloping me. It circled me once like this - our eyes inches apart before it eventually left. The most amazing moments I have had yet whilst diving. Unfortunately Marsha had run out of air and was already on the boat by the time this occurred and remains suspicious that any of the above actually happenned!!

It started raining back on dry land - if that maskes sense! After a small lunch of Gado Gado we spent the afternoon on the balcony reading and catching up with this...

It couldn't be called a celebration, us leaving Indonesia, maybe we were celebrating the 3 very enjoyable and successful years we'd had in this country; whatever, we had a few bintangs (Indonesian local beer) on our last night in this great place. It gets bad press occasionally around the world - and quite rightly so when bombs go off and political and low level corruption is reported. However, the positives massively outweigh the few negatives. The people on the whole are incredibly friendly, the islands we have been to are very different from each other, each with a unique culture. The beaches are fantastic as as been the pitifully little amounts of diving we have done. Bali has been named the best island in the world - and quite rightly so in my view - but Indonesia's islands have so much more. From the jungles of Sumatra to the tribes of Papua and the historical temples of java. Not to mention the Komodo dragons, world class surfing and diving and beaches that have to be seen to be believed. Indonesia is one of my favourite places in the world - I couldn't reccommend a visit more.

August 10th, 11th
And so we left. 1st the island on a ferry, then by plane to Kuala Lumpur. We'll be back - that's for sure.

Both Marsha and I had been to Kuala Lumpur and Malaysia many times. We were staying for just under 48 hours with Stuart and Clara - 2 friends we had known from Jakarta - and their little wee girl Alex. They have a lovely new home there and we were hosted perfectly - by being allowed to sit and watch tv and drink coffee and do just about nothing for the time we were there other than go out for some good food places nearby.

So, after a few too many wines, a fair bit of washing, many films and some good eats and company we left very early morning on the 12th bound for China - feeling very much refreshed.